You don’t need a visa in advance, and provided you don’t accidentally leave a passenger at the border (more on that lower down) it’s a relatively quick trip…
Trying to figure out how to get from Israel to Jordan is a bit of a minefield.
For starters, you need to know the lay of the land, and about the three places you can cross from. There’s also a whooooole lot of misinformation out there about each of the crossings, so we will try lay it all out for you below. This is everything you need to be aware of before choosing where to cross from, how to cross, and how much it will cost:
The crossings are:
- The southern border connecting Eilat and Aqaba. There’s sketchy information out there about whether or not you can get a visa on arrival here – but common consensus is that you can’t, unless you’re part of a tour group.
- Allenby/ King Hussein Bridge: this is technically in Palestine and is the closest crossing to Amman and Jerusalem. However, you also CANNOT get a visa on arrival here if you’re headed from Israel to Jordan. The only way you can cross here is if you’ve gotten your visa for Jordan in advance, or have gone in to Tel Aviv to get it.
- Sheikh Hussein crossing: this is to the north, close to Nazareth and the Sea of Galilee. There’s a direct bus that goes from Nazareth to Amman three times a week for a pretty decent price – far cheaper than the other option, which is basically only to taxi.
FEES AT THE BORDER: 40JOD Visa on arrival for Israel, 107 shekels departure tax from Israel
For us, the best option was obviously the Sheikh Hussein crossing, hands down. There’s no public transport from any of the other crossings into Jordan, meaning you’re left paying EXTORTIONATE taxi fees – which actually usually take a lot longer, too. The bus from Nazareth to Amman runs every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, and costs a measly $22. You’ll pay at least 5 times that if you try take a taxi. Better yet, you can pay online.
It may seem like it’s run by a tour company, but we were actually just lumped on a large bus with a bunch of other locals and tourists, so I assume all the tour operators work together on this. It’s a comfortable bus with a friendly driver, leaves from opposite the McDonalds on Paulus Ha-Shishi St at 8.30am sharp, and gets in to Amman at 1.15pm at the completely nondescript and out-of-the-way Waradat Albustan Hotel. The hotel is way off to the north of the city, so you’ll need further transport from there.
It’s a relatively slow drive for the first two-thirds of it, seemingly driving extremely slowly up through the north of Jordan and winding your way through the middle of Irbid (there’s a ten minute drinks and toilet stop in Irbid), but everything speeds up once you’re through the northern city. There’s not much to look at, however, as most of the north of Jordan is strewn with garbage.